Friday, February 3, 2012

Full Panel Maternity Pant Tutorial

As many know, I am pregnant...again. We are super happy and excited about our new growing bundle of joy. As a pregnant, petite woman I have found it very difficult to find maternity pants that fit and are also hip...I love being the hipster preggo. My first pregnancy I was a size 2 until about my third trimester. The prospect of buying maternity clothing was so exciting to me, but alas my excitement was short lived. My first trip to the maternity clothing stores proved very unsuccessful for I discovered that most reasonably priced brands only ran pant sizes from size 4 and up. I was swimming in those babies, and they were all way to long. I know how to use a sewing machine so I knew I could alter them, but who wants to alter a pair of pants you just bought brand new? I know I don't (I do believe in altering dress pants for the record. Just not jeans etc.) Now some brands do carry the smaller sizes and have the fun, trendy skinny jeans. But they are way more expensive. I happen to be a frugal shopper and almost erk at the thought of spending $80 to $200 for a pair of jeans I will only wear for about four months. So, I decided to bust out my crafty ex-fashion designer wannabe mojo and find a way to make my own maternity pants. After a few decent tries, I think I finally have it down ladies. I will go through a step by step process on how to make a full panel maternity pant. I like the full panel verses elastic because it is comfy and offers the option of wearing it all the way up over your bump or folding it over to give you that layered look. This is great tutorial for preggos of every size, and will save you some dinero big time if you take your time and shop cheap ;). You can do it!

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
1. Sewing machine threaded ready to go.
2. Pair of pants that fits but won't button any more due to the belly (you should be able to zip the pants about one inch at least).
3. Old tee shirt with a bottom hem. I ask the hubby if he had any he wanted to get rid of. Thrift stores have them for cheap too.
4. Seem Ripper
5. Scissors
6. Pins
7. Pen

I started out by taking a good look at a pair of store bought maternity pants that I have that fit just right. We will be using them as a "pattern" to follow for making our pants.
front
 Back
On the left are the pants to be converted.

PART 1

Grab your seem ripper. Now is a good time to mention that there is no going back for which ever pants you choose to convert. They have found a new identity as preggo pants, and that is how they will stay.
Detach the belt loops on the bottom attachment point all the way around the waist band.
 Carefully remove the zipper on both sides. You don't need it any more.

Looking at the side by side comparison above. We want our pants to dip down in front to make room for the belly. My store bought M.P.'s have about an inch of "zipper" before they attach to the fabric panel. Mark or pin about 1in up on the zipper of your pants as I did bellow. I carry my babies really low so I dip this part down even more that store bought pants for comforts sake.
Now look again at the side by side pic above and note where the fabric panel meets the denim on the side seems of the store bought M.P's. Imagine, pin or mark an upside down rainbow going from side seem to center to side seem. Now comes the scary part. Cut along that line giving 1cm. extra for sewing.
 As I cut I pinned the pockets in place. You will know what I mean after you cut over the pocket line.
 Continue cutting off the waist band by following closely the back seem where the waist band meets the back side of the pants.
Pin the zipper front and back together.
Once all is removed you should have a deep dip in front and a gradual arch in back. 

PART 2

Now we are gonna work on the fabric belly panel. I like using a good jersey cotton t-shirt for this. I like using an old t-shirt because the bottom hem works great for the top hem of our pants. I do not have a serger so I can't make a good stretchy edge without sacrificing a lot of durability. 
Again, lets do a good side by side comparison of the store bought pants and the shirt to be converted.
 I placed my pants on top of the old t-shirt. The panel is basically a rectangle about half an inch shorter in width of that of the pants from side seem to side seem. This is just how I measure it out for myself.
I pinned it down the right side down to about where the zipper meets the fabric panel. 

The ruler is indicating where the bottom line of the rectangle we are about to cut out is located.  Remember to give a little extra for sewing.
You really just want a big rectangle of fabric that is the same width as your belly. I pinned it and then cut it out. Now you want to sew up the right edge so you have a tube.


I double stitched the side for more strength.
Let's do another side by side. So my width looks good on the panel I just sewed. Now I need to get that deep swooping front and the slightly up curved back.
I placed my pants on top of the panel so that the top hems were even. Then I marked where the denim met the fabric on the left side seem. Again, remember to leave room for sewing.

Now fold your panel in half and pin or mark the other side. Unfold and lay flat again.
With a pen, mark from about 1 cm. up from the center bottom to the pins on each side in an upside down rainbow. This will be the front of the panel. Flip over the panel to mark the back.
 Oh yes, another side by side. This is the back of the store bought pants.
 I placed my pants on top of the panel and put my finger where the denim meets the fabric.
 I then marked or pinned the spot on my fabric panel.
Same as the front. Mark or pin the upward arch on the back of the panel
 Cut that panel out following the marks you made.
Hopefully this is what you get. 

PART 3

Let's sew our pieces together! Grab the top hem of the fabric panel and turn it inside out buy pulling down ward. Shove the pants into the panel.
 The deep swooping belly part of the panel should be on the top now.
Pin the panel to the pants all the way around.
 Yay, we get to sew. We are almost done! Sew the waist all the way around.
 Again, I double stitched for added strength.
There you go.
My home made pants                                      Store bought pants
I am pleased with my result, and actually like the ones I made more than the store bought pants. I just made four pairs from some of my old pants, and made this pair from a 97 cent pair of old navy clearance pants. If this was confusing please forgive. My best advice is to take your time and plan how you execute your sewing and cutting. Really examine a pair of store bought clothing and try to mimic it as much as possible. Measure as much as you can, and pin, pin, pin.